We Need Your 2011 Trip Report

Did you float the river this year?  Capture some great photos?  Amazing side trips?  Awesome Videos?

We want to Share Your Trip Report!

River Trip - View Progress

I leave on Friday 5/27 for 9 days.  We are traveling from Highway 12 to Lake Powell.  You can view our progress from the link below:

Spot Adventures

River Update - A Great Week to Run

 If you have been wondering - waiting - or holding off over the last few years, Now is the time to be running the Escalante River.

Look at the progression over the last few days.  If you are on the river this week I would love to hear from you!

A storm is on the way into the area with temperatures dropping.  It will be curious to watch the flows over the next 48 hours  to see what happens.

I am in the middle of my own trip preparations for this year and have lots of additional information coming.  In the mean time, a few years ago I did a there-and-back in Escalante with my GF and our younger kids.  To get everything there we enlisted the help of her teenage son and friends.

With tight jeans and stocking caps they certainly seemed out of place in the desert sun, I had recently read a trip report of a group utilizing Pack Lamas on a guided trip.  While traveling we labeled the teenagers - who were carrying a bulky load, the PACK EMO's.

My buddy Marcus from ADailyDoodle.com enjoyed the story -and at my request drafted this quality piece on his site.  Come to find out Emo is a deprecated term to the guys and they prefer some other term, not currently in need of their services, I forget.  

Trip Planning - Maps

We're all pilgrims on the same journey - but some pilgrims have better road maps.
Nelson DeMille

GPS Devices might fail, there's water, wind and sand - the perfect disaster if that's all your carrying.  We will save the electronics discussion for later.  So, what should you take?

There are 2 essential maps you should travel with if you are floating the most popular routes from Highway 12.

If you have not discovered the guide maps from RiverMaps then you will absolutely love this website.  These are downriver maps for every mile of the trip.  This is a must have on the trip, and if you only take one, make it this water resistant book.

National Geographic Maps has some of the most accurate maps of the southwest.  This one contains river mile tics as well as providing additional details of side canyons. 

Where are we? 

Trip Planning - Escape Routes

Tomorrow is the 30 day mark for my anticipated launch date this year.  As always, I have been scavenging around the internet for recent updates, trip reports or information.

I have to give it to you packrafters - seems that you are the best at Trip Reporting information.  I have been reading your posts recently and as usual am surprised at some of the mis-information that gets out there.

One recent posters experience after making it to the GSESM Visitors Center in Escalante Utah surprised me the most, but was also reminiscent of my first experience as well.   After traveling some distancing this person checked-in for the required backcountry pass and was told, as he explains...."they told me the river was kinda all or nothing".

What a dis function for the poor packer, of all types of paddlers - the Escalante River is truly most accessible to you!

This brought me head on with the very important topic of ESCAPE Routes.  They will certainly mention them to you if you stop by the office to get your pass.  Mater of factly, if I remember my own experience correctly.  Because the numbing had already set in for me by that point of my first visit, I didn't pick up the topic for further discussion - only reassured them that it was included in all of our trip planning, and was noted or relevant maps being used.

I will do my best below to list them in order passed along the way, starting from the Highway 12 put-in.  If you are using a different location - your put-in will likely be noted as a possible exit route.  If you know of a useful route not mentioned please let me know.

Important Note:  Help can be a long way off in the river basin.  Cell phone service will NOT work and should not be relied upon.  Even if help is contacted they could be hours away from your location.  In severe circumstance a river escape may be your only option.  However - just because you are out of the basin does not mean that roads are not miles away.

Escalante River Escape Routes


1.)  This first mile or more is private property with houses and cabins nearby.
2.)  Mile 6.3 Boulder Creek.
 If you make it this far and need out your best bet would be to turn around and take the trail back toward the highway.  Phipps Canyon could be used also.
3.) Mile 6 - 12 -  Ladder Canyon LKA
At mile 10.5 is an unnamed exit right locally known as Ladder.
4.)  Mile 13- 18 The Gulch.
At mile 15.4 is The Gulch, it's 8.4 miles to the trail head from here.   Note:  There is a ladders exit in the The Gulch, however the main canyon exit is an easier route.
5.) Mile 19 - 24 Lower Sand Slide
This overland route will get you out of the river drainage.  From the top of the dune locate the pink dome on the right.
6.)  Mile 25 - 30 Harris Wash:
Located at mile 29.2 this is one of the most popular canyons in the area.
7.) Mile 31 - 36 Fence Canyon.
Located at mile 35.8  in the Egypt 3 area this is the SHORTEST route out, it is also a popular destination because of it's proximity to Neon.
8.) Mile 37 - 42 Twenty Five Mile Wash
Located at mile 41.9 this is also a major trail exit.
9.) Mile 43 - 48  Moody Creek
At mile 48, this is 1 of 3 with this name.
10.) Mile 49 - 54 Scorpion Gulch
Located at mile 55.  You are 8.8 miles from the trail head.
11.) Mile 55 - 61.  Fold Canyon
Mile 60.8 leads to this lengthy climb.
12.)  Mile 62 - 67  Hydra Canyon
At mile 65.5 this would be a difficult canyon to climb out of.
13.)  Mile 68 - 73 None
14.)  Mile 74 - 79 Coyote Gulch
At mile 75.4 is a main take-out for those leaving the river, this is the Crack-in-the-wall route.  This is also the last meaning exit before Lake Powell.
15.) Mile 80 - 85 Explorer Canyon
This will be your pick-up location on the lake.

None of these routes identified are easy, if you are injured attempting any of these could be foolish.  The shortest route out is at Fence Canyon, located almost in the middle of the trip for those exiting at Coyote Gulch.  This route is just over 3 miles with the most difficult section being the last 800 foot ascent.  Most of these exit river right, The Gulch and Moody Creek being the notable exception.

Good luck in your trip planning and be safe!

Planning the Right Trip for YOU

As my loved ones sometimes reminds me, there is a fine line between carefully planning the right trip and obsessing over the potential of unknowns.  Well - she's right!  There is a fine line - very fine.

To me it seems simple, if you are the type of person willing to take the risk - travel 85 miles of life changing terrain to get a glimpse of the best scenery anywhere to be found - well, then you are also the person willing to put up the boot work to make it happen.

The above Itinerary is from my 2010 Solo trip of May/June.  I used the layout of the previous year trip because it seemed to work well for me and provide the type of details I wanted to keep a hands reach.  It's lacking some information that you may want to add for you trip.

Most noticeably one could point out it does not have Escape routes or known water sources.  I will supplement these in their own postings later.

Considerations for building your trip

1. Consider your limits and those in your party.   Don't plan your failure, keep within what you know you have done before.  
2. Write down your plan.  Give your loved ones a break, worse case they know where to start looking.
3. Make room for changes.  You don't know what's around that next turn.  If you don't have the time to give yourself then you will be really late after the rescue!
4. Add useful information.  Site seeing is probably why you are there, note the places you want to stop.
5. Include distances.  It helps estimate travel time and tracks adherence to the schedule.
6. Keep it handy.  It's reassurance when moving that you are on-track and on time.  The take-out on Lake Powell is at least $350 and will charge you if you miss.
7. Add notes.  Time forgets all things - and you will too.  It will add to next years plan or make a great souvenir.   

In The News

If you have picked up the May 2011 copy of Canoe & Kayak then you had to notice the centerfold article with the great shot of Stevens Arch.

It's no wonder this secret slips out more and more.  With the water levels close to record levels this year it will be interesting to see how much pressure the river gets.  If you are going out, preparedness is your best defense.

With the beautiful scenery around almost every turn its no wonder that it's easy to forget the details and preparation needed for such an adventure.

With the season around the next warm turn I will start to create a few straight technical details post for anyone new this year needing that hard to find information.  If nothing else, a good place to start could be the River Runners Guide to Utah and Adjacent Areas.

The last thing anyone wants is for someone to get injured out there.  When stopping by the BLM office in Escalante you might notice that they are very cautious even hesitant to issue a river travel permit.  When I was there the first year running the river, they also didn't have staff on-site that could adequately speak about current hazards or conditions.

Back to the press...  It is worth noting that although the river is listed as a Class I-II river there are enough obstacles, changing or unknown conditions and impressive currents at even modest flows.  It's a great river for almost anyone with enough enthusiasm to take it on, but not to be considered lightly or attempted unprepared.

Without much delay I will publish Itinerary, Escape Route, Maps and Gear, Water and Take-Out information that will assist in your planning for the weeks to come.  The flow is still low and recent storms in Utah have both added to the snow pack and kept temperatures cool, this may be a year where a mid June trip could be anticipated.

Be safe, more to come.

 

Recommend Flows - Ifs, Ands and Buts

The Escalante River may be one of the hardest Western rivers - perhaps just plain impossible - to accurately predict the expected flow while planning a trip.

Before my first trip, I poured over every bit of information in print and online that could be found with a special interest in understanding what people were saying about 'recommended cfs flows' before I started.  Truth is, my mind had already been made at that point and whatever information was to be found and considered was for informative purposes only.  Every thing I could find pointed that a minumum 50 cfs would be required.

This presents a HUGE problem.  Looking at USGS water site one can almost immediately see that an expected flow in spring time at this rate is all but unheard of.  One place I found said a combined flow with Boulder Creek of 50 cfs would be sufficient. Problem there is that no information is available for flow rates on Boulder Creek.  Finally in publication I found a recommendation as low as 30 cfs on upper Escalante to make the trip possible.  As an example, the highest annual average mean value I could find on the site was in 2005 and was 37.4.

USGS Real-Time Water Data for the Escalante River

Hopefully this will not be the first time I have said this here, I am not an expert of anything.  I can tell only the stories of my own experience.  I have successfully traveled consecutively twice from Highway 12 to Lake Powell.  Neither of my trips included a reading near the recommended levels, in fact my first trip was at a very low reading.  This trip required pushing, kicking and determination to complete at this low of a level.  Here are the flows on the dates of my travels.

2009

2010

Before we take this further it's important to know a little information about the gauging station that provides the only real-time information available.  The actual gauge is located just outside of the town of Escalante and almost 17 miles from the put-in on Highway 12.  The river at this earlier point most times of the year is  little more than what I might call an irrigation canal.  Last year the USGS posted a new picture on the website that I would consider a very generous flow, you can notice the heavy silted brown color that usually runs at bit clearer during this time of year when I have visited the station.

Photo from USGS Real-Time Water Date website - used as reference only

If the date on the picture is correct the flow at the time this was taken would have been exactly 16cfs.  The day that this article was written is 3/8/2011 and the reading currently available from this location is 5.8 cfs almost 3 times lower than what we see in the picture.  A reading of 16 by this early date might have implied rain in the area , this would further explain the heavy silting.   I am hoping for a serious spring storm this year while Im in town so I can inspect this station at a higher flow.  I honestly can't imagine what a reading at 400 or above would look like here, let alone fit in this stream bed.  I'm off track....

Highway 12 is also the confluence of the Escalante with Calf Creek.  Although not measured, this stream provides some additional relief and is located just after bridges west side.  I found this great example on the Utah State University web site.  

Photo from Utah State University website - used as reference only.

6 miles downstream is the confluence of the Escalante with Boulder Creek.  Boulder doesn't seem to be perennial.  Although it can provide some significant volumes when running.  In 2009, the first year I floated this was dry and did not contribute.  I have to admit I was somewhat dismayed as this seemed likely to have still been flowing on 6/13/09.

Bent, Crooked and Twisted - Escalante River

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"Say that I starved; that I was lost and weary: That I was burned and blinded by the desert sun; Footsore, thirsty, sick with strange diseased; Lonely and wet and cold, but that I kept my dream!" 

Everett Ruess

It's hard to introduce a river like the Escalante...certainly not mighty like it's neighbor, the Colorado.  Neither reliable or controlled,  it's the result of 320 square miles of red rock drainage.  It picks up the confluence of Calf Creek and Boulder Creek with periodic feeding from the many washes and side canyons.

Because of its remote beauties and stunning landscapes it's no wonder that this river is a unique prize for river runners.  Seasonal runoff's that support this river also add to the complexity of a successful visit. Most people won't even attempt this river if the flow does not meet or exceed the recommended flow of 50 cfs at the USGS gauging station several miles above stream from the put-in.  Following these guidelines makes this river runnable an average of 1 every 5 years, with possible stretches of double that during dry seasons.

Another consideration that also prevents groups from floating this river is it's remote landscape with miles of sand and stone that have few trails that reach all the way to the rivers edge.  This means a self-rescue is your only way out to roads miles from the river.  In many places the sheer stone cliffs drop hundreds of feet from the top straight into the river making an exit impossible.  The further you progress down stream the river becomes home to huge boulders dislodged from above.  These massive obstacles, sometime the size of cars, make the already twisted path complicated to navigate.

The river itself runs the same orange and brown that surrounds the river with the silt it constantly carries.  In an area where water is so scare, this becomes your only or easiest drinking solution on some stretches.  The smell alone may turn some people away.  Any water rescued should be treated before consumption.  On every trip I have found dead animals and litter spread from flooding along the route.

In many places the river is intruded by invasive Russian Olive trees that have washed down stream from higher elevations and chocked out slower growing native plants along the banks.  Although several efforts have been completed or underway, these are a nuisance that can't be avoided.  In areas where they have been cut down they often end up end the water where they become more problematic and less avoidable.  Looking in the above photo you can see these almost grey leaf branches on both sides of the stream bed.

The final question for anyone attempting this river becomes the take-out.  Only 2 options are available for anyone considering the entire length.  I have heard of people using Fence Canyon in the Egypt 3 area as a take-out for cutting the trip in half, but having done this hike myself several times, with a boat this would be even more difficult than the Crack-in-the-wall route.  The take-out would be one of the following:  Crack-in-the-wall or a pickup on Lake Powell.  Those willing to pack out should leave a whole day to transfer gear from the river to trail head an plan on 2 trips to get everything out.  From there it's a dirt road back to Escalante.  Leaving a ride at the trail head or scheduling a pick up from one of the many services in town are a must.  The second option would be to continue the roughly 5 miles to Explorer Canyon and meet a scheduled pickup from the ferry services available from Bullfrog Marina.  The take off is a little more than an hour and costs around 400 dollars for a group of 2.

River Swimming - An Introduction

Its amazing what bad experiences can teach you.  As I made my approach into my last stretch of the river that day several things raced through my head.  I have already pointed out the first 5 critical errors of the day and what I would do next certainly added to that list.

Time slows down in those moments but never stops completely.  I remember quickly analyzing the size of the branches, then the amount of the tree in the water. Suddenly the door pushed open to the trouble approaching.  With only feet to go my best attempt seemed to be inside the boat protected from the branches.

In a little vessel any move creates a response in stability...as I slunk into the lower reaches of the bow my actions were no exception.  Still not being completely inside and now knowing that doing this would be almost impossible I left myself no time for the coming branches.

As sticks lift out of the water all kinds of things may be attached to them.  Leaves, moss or small creations seem to be common.  I only mention that here because one of these I'm sure was my final undoing.  As something wet, cold and slimy rubbed my cheek I perched to the left throwing the boat in the same direction.  Well implanted in the trees at this point the continued forward motion was all that it took.

I think I only half touched down the first time, the coldness of the water I'm sure was plenty to motivate me strongly in the opposite direction.  This was short lived with the new found weight of the boat and a second time I lisped to the left.  Without a sound I entered the water, not from bravery mind you but from the icy temperature of the water now holding me hostage.  I was directly behind my boat which was still floating above water.

With all attention focused on the tree limb a second failed observation was the dramatically decreased width and sudden increased in speed the water made in parallel with the branch.  As I struggled to understand my new surroundings the reality of the situation was only beginning to set in.  With a swift kick of the leg however my reality was set, rocks, big submerged boulders somewhere under the waters surface had just rudely introduced themselves to my leg.

In that moment I was suddenly calm...okay not calm but by no means willing to take another rock from my movements.  The next few feet drifted along slowly and at one point I tried to sit atop my kayak, which pushed it under the water completely, slowing it down as it hovered just under the surface. I know knew what had to be done and cautiously I put the first foot down.  One hand on the boat and one swinging side to side in the water in front of my like a snake.

Arriving at the right bank was not the complete satisfaction I was looking for at that point.  The shoulder cuts abruptly upward to a bike trail on that side.  With no where to stand and now shaking with cold I try several times to pull the boat up the bank and out of the water.  Again and again I try growing colder and colder with each attempt.

With just enough of the boat out to keep it from floating away I turn attention to my clothes quickly becoming stiff with frost.  First the hoodie, then the jeans until only the under layers are displayed to the world.  Being a popular bike trail I have gained an audience.  It was the teenagers in the group that finally helped me drain the boat and pull it up on the trail.

Walking is an alright way to get or stay warm, it's not great - just alright.  It's also surprising how survival trumps all other things, including new purchases.  I think it was my girlfriends expression when I finally walked into the take out area that I remember the most.  This may be because our relationship was still at one of those new places and maybe I hadn't seen disappointment yet.  She will deny it, but if I was okay weren't her first words.

Adventure Training - Wet, Cold and Shivering

It's all to do with the training: you can do a lot if you're properly trained. - Elizabeth II

 All of Utah's rivers are fed by snow capped mountains that line the state primarily from the north and south.   Depending on the year a river may have ice on it until April or even May.  This makes learning a new sport on the water an extra challenge considering that many Utah rivers can't compete in size or flow with the rivers of most other states.

It was somewhere in March or April with my boat tied on to the Xterra with tie-downs and my girlfriend in the passenger seat to act as shuttle I headed out for my very first kayaking trip to the banks of the lower Provo River.  Much of the year this river runs low enough in many spots that a visitor could easily cross it's banks by foot.  Some portions pool into short deep sections before the river bends and turns.  There are very few areas on the bottom section where the water is forced to rush and move.

It was with this reassurance that I pushed off on my maiden voyage, my pulse racing with a body of enthusiasm much like a child.  After all I had waited years for this, dreamed and forgotten many times the wonder of floating off on some body of water and here I was, small and well known, but an adventure none the less.

Spending just a second evaluating the picture above, taken while practicing briefly on still water that day before heading to the river, one can note several key problems with the decisions made on this first trip.  Perhaps first might be the emergency paddle in hand - purchased on the way - that does not have duel paddles.  Second could easily be the blue jeans, or just as likely the cotton hoodie.  Third or fourth on the list, although they can't be seen would be the additional cotton layers underneath providing warmth.  Fifth would be the obviously lacking spray skirt that hadn't yet been purchased.

The first several bends were easy on the wide river and I had almost decided to congratulate myself on the wiseness contained within when a tight right hand turn approached.  My little boat seemed long out there and the water current suddenly picked up, I struggled to move out of the current driving into the bank around the corner.  For a second the boat stalled before the inward motion grabbed it back into it's grasp.  I washed around the corner, avoiding the bank where the current pounded, by spinning out as the stream made sense of the waters movements.

There it was I thought with sweaty palms, I survived the unexpected without going over.  That decision must have let me relax as I progressed passed the next few turns.  It was there, somewhere around the half way marker, that I heard a thundering sound of water.  What was it?  Had I missed something in my scouting?  As I rounded the turn I could see the spray of water crashing just a few feet down into the water, probably from an irrigation canal feeding the surrounding farmlands.  It wasn't really a lot, but enough to scare me while moving....a strange feeling for any level of rider.

I didn't crash, or uproot out of the boat as I passed, but I was certainly feeling my heart pound under the life vest.  It was just as I passed successfully by the confluence that I noticed the strainer overhanging the entire width of the river.  My research at this point hadn't covered river obstacles or techniques to overcome them. Being my fist time on moving water I doubt it would have helped much.  Equally unknown was any meaningful re-entry technique that may have helped with what came next.

Planning - Pride and Fear

What do you do when on one hand, making a decision is a great feeling, but on the other being the realization of the potential consequences of what you are saying?

Let me put perspective on this....making a decision to attempt a river that is very seldom run by experienced kayakers might make sense if you are, if fact experienced with a “caique”.  
  

“.. almost everything – all external expectations, all pride, all fear of embarrassment or failure - these things just fall away in the face of death, leaving only what is truly important. Remembering that you are going to die is the best way I know to avoid the trap of thinking you have something to lose. You are already naked. There is no reason not to follow your heart.”  -- Steve Jobs

I seldom take days to make a decision, and can't say that I also haven't been swayed by impulse.  Both of these came into play on the day I purchased a kayak.  There aren't many if any kayak specific shops in the Utah area, not to say there isn't a few good places to choose a boat, but being on a learners budget in kayak shopping really doesn't open the door to many options.

About the third store I visited that day I could feel the panic creeping in....I didn't have 800 bucks today - would I ever?  I was also pretty certain that fitting gear into some of these would limit every aspect of the coming decisions to make.  Also, shopping with your girlfriend who you only recently explained your newest plans to can add layers of unforeseen stress to a situation.

I was in the store I a shop at frequently a place I am comfortable in....I still visit the place regularly today.  If I couldn't do it here, maybe it wouldn't happen.  Perhaps buying a boat on almost impulse wouldn't prove itself that year, or maybe that's the strange feeling of motivation you get before making a purchase of a couple hundred dollars?

There is was, standing end to end and away from the other craft I had carefully inspected, green in color with almost a grin or a smirk somehow.   Within minutes I have perused it's depths and chambers marking requirements mentally off my hastily prepared list.  This seemed to be 'it', I was moving forward and soon I would be a proud new boat owner.

Learning the River - Push Pull or Drag

Hi - My name is Joe.  For years, growing up in Utah I heard about one fascinating scout trip or another, time and again about this almost mysterious place called the Escalante river.

In my teens and early twenties I still had never made it to this area.  My interests were turned in other directions, raising kids - a job, and all of the excitement that surrounds this period in life.  During my mid-twenties I was locked in college pursuing a dream, hoping that these efforts would untie me from the long hours and weekends it took supporting a family.

Finally in my thirties, every excuse was exhausted and I would make my first venture into the Escalante area.  Would time be to short, as were the dollars supporting my travels?  Either way at least finally I could say I had been there. How would I travel?  Who would want to go with me?  With so many miles or terrain where should I start or end?

These questions were all that I needed to rekindle the wonders that I carried of this place as a child.  I immediately began plans to expand and explore into the area.  The Colorado Plateau is unique in many ways, it's landscape that twists and bends in every way except a straight line.  The colors seem to dip and change with the shadows and sun.  It is filled with boundless wonders and change and you travel mile after mile, but perhaps its most unique feature is the seemingly endless remoteness that envelopes this area.

How was I to take what I needed, to support myself in the extremes that make the hours of the day?  With almost barren rocks and distance between water or shelter could I enjoy or even survive these conditions?   Pouring over maps and information only compound the questions...can it be enjoyed?  Can it be done?

These are all fair questions when you consider this area, and especially curious when you consider the river itself.  The Escalante river was the last river to mapped in the continental United States.  It's length wasn't even attempted until May 28, 1948.  This is also considered to be one of the crooked rivers in the US.

So it was this path that lead me to the decisions to take on the area.  To attempt the river itself, cutting through more than 75 miles of carved sandstone to it's confluence with Lake Powell.  It would be this journey and the preparations to support it that inspired a quest that continues even today.